What Is Deep Drop Fishing and How Do I Do Deep Drop Fishing

Deep Drop Fishing Explained

from The Fishing Wire

Deep Drop Fishing Involves Targeting Fish That Live In The Deeper Parts Of The Ocean, Often At Depths Ranging From 400 To 1,500 Feet.

Deep Drop Fishing is the key to an exciting world!

Deep beneath the ocean’s surface is a world teeming with mysterious and elusive creatures that few people ever experience. Deep drop fishing is your key to this world. It’s far from your typical day on the water. Deep dropping requires advanced equipment, keen intuition, and a willingness to take on the unknown. This guide will cover what deep drop fishing is, what you can catch, and how to fish with metered color braid, an essential for getting the best results. 

What Is Deep Drop Fishing? 

Deep drop fishing involves targeting fish that live in the deeper parts of the ocean, often at depths ranging from 400 to 1,500 feet. This technique requires specialized equipment, including heavy-duty rods, reels, and  metered color braid to handle the extreme depths and pressures. 

Deep drop fishing lets you catch species that few anglers ever see because these fish live in the ocean’s depths. They often inhabit specific underwater structures, seamounts, or trenches.

What fish do you catch with deep drop fishing?

  • Tilefish: Including golden tilefish and blueline tilefish, both sought after for their flavor 
  • Groupers: Including warsaw grouper, which can weigh over 500 pounds, and snowy grouper, with light spots and wonderful taste
  • Snappers: Including yellow eye snapper, named for their distinctive yellow eyes, and queen snapper, a bright red species of tender fish with a mild flavor
  • Swordfish: Highly prized sport fish known for their long, sword-like bills and intense fights 
  • Wreckfish: Often found around deep underwater wrecks and structures, they’re known for their firm texture
  • Oilfish: Known for its oily texture, this species is often found in very deep waters
  • Sablefish: Also known as black cod, sablefish inhabit deep waters and are prized for their rich flavor
  • Orange Roughy: A deep-sea species that can live for over 100 years, known for its delicate taste

Finding the Right Spot for Deep Drop Fishing

Finding the ideal deep drop fishing spot requires combining technology, experience, and understanding of the marine environment. Modern GPS and fish finders equipped with sonar are essential tools for locating promising spots. GPS allows you to save coordinates of productive areas, while fish finders provide real-time data about the underwater terrain and potential fish presence. 

Fish often gather around features that provide cover, a break in current, or abundant food sources. This includes rock formations, deep-sea trenches, and underwater mountains. As you gain experience, you can identify these spots on your fish finder. 

Preparing Your Bait for Deep Drop Fishing

Different deep-sea fish are attracted to different types of bait, and the correct bait can greatly influence your success. Knowing the species you’re targeting helps in selecting the right bait. For example, snowy groupers prefer cut fish, while tilefish are more drawn to squid.

Fresh bait emits a stronger scent that can attract fish, so it’s often the best choice. However, quality frozen bait is also widely used and can be highly effective if properly thawed and prepared. Common bait options include squid, mackerel, bonito, and other fish that reflect the natural prey of deep-sea dwellers.

Deep drop fishing requires bait to withstand extreme pressure and be able to descend to significant depths. Cutting the bait into the right size and shape to fit the hook properly will help. Whether you use live or cut bait, it must be attached securely to the hook to resist the pull of the currents and the nibbling of smaller fish on its way down.

Equipment for Deep Drop Fishing

Because your equipment will need to hold up to extreme conditions — and hopefully heavy fish — all of your gear needs to be durable, strong, built to withstand the most aggressive fish, and specialized for deep water. 

Rods and reels

Deep drop rods are designed to withstand the intense pressures and demands of this specialized form of angling. Deep drop rods are usually constructed from a combination of fiberglass and graphite. This blend of materials ensures that the rods are both strong enough to handle the heavy weights required for deep-sea fishing and flexible enough to fight large, powerful fish. 

Despite their robust build, deep drop rods must have sensitive tips so you can detect subtle bites, often through hundreds of yards of line. Deep drop rods are designed with a heavy to extra-heavy action, meaning they bend less and have more backbone. This stiffness enables them to handle the demands of heavy weights and substantial fish without breaking or losing control.

Deep Drop Rod

The Blackfin Rods Fin 154L is ideal for deep drop fishing due to its high-quality construction, strength, and sensitivity. 

Regarding reels, many anglers prefer conventional models with high line capacity and robust drag systems, while others prefer the convenience of electric reels. The drag must be smooth and adjustable to manage a fish’s powerful runs. Deep drop reels must accommodate a substantial amount of line, often several hundred yards, to reach the targeted depths. The reels must be constructed with materials resistant to saltwater corrosion and capable of handling the constant pressure exerted by heavy weights and large fish.

Metered color braid

Metered color braid, also known as multi-colored or segmented braid, is the best deep drop fishing line for catching tile and many other deep water fish. Metered color braid consists of different colors that are repeated at specific intervals along the length of the line. It’s typically constructed from synthetic materials such as polyethylene, which provide high strength and low stretch.

Metered Color Braid for Deep Drop Fishing

The primary purpose of color coding is to allow you to gauge depth or distance without relying on electronic equipment. By knowing the color sequence and the length of each colored segment, you can accurately determine how much line you’ve deployed by counting the color changes. You can precisely position the bait at the desired depth or distance from the boat.

In deep drop fishing, metered color braid provides a significant advantage in targeting specific depths where fish may lurk. Its low stretch ensures you can feel bites and set hooks more effectively, even at great depths. FINS metered color braid provides superior performance for deep drop fishing. 

Hooks and rigs

You’ll need robust and sharp hooks that can penetrate the tough mouths of deep-sea fish. Circle hooks & Circle Hook Rods are widely used due to their design, which promotes secure hooking without gut hooking the fish. J-hooks are also common but require a more aggressive hook set. The hook’s size, shape, and strength must align with the targeted species and bait used. 

Your rig should be tailored to the conditions and species. Glow beads, deep-sea fishing lights, or luminescent skirts can be added to the rigs to mimic bioluminescent prey and attract fish in the dark depths.

Single-hook rigs are straightforward and used when targeting a specific species that requires a particular bait presentation. The hook is often attached to a heavy monofilament or fluorocarbon leader.

Multi-hook rigs are more complex than single-hook setups, but they allow multiple baits to be presented at varying depths simultaneously. These are popular for targeting different species or when the exact depth of the fish is unknown.

Weights and sinkers

Deep drop fishing requires significant weight to get the bait down to the desired depths quickly. You can use bank or pyramid sinkers. The weight must be heavy enough to overcome underwater currents but not so heavy that it makes detecting bites difficult. 

How to Fish with Metered Color Line

When you fish with metered color line, you’ll use the color-coded segments to accurately measure and control the depth of your bait. This precision and control can significantly improve your success rate.

Here’s the step-by-step process: 

  1. Select your line: Choose a metered color line with appropriate color segment lengths and pound test for the specific type of fishing you are planning. 
  2. Spool the reel: Spool the metered color line onto your reel, ensuring it’s evenly distributed. The line should be wound tightly and without twists to prevent tangles during deployment.
  3. Attach the leader: Connect a monofilament or fluorocarbon leader to the metered braid using a suitable knot or connector. The leader provides a clear connection to the bait and adds some stretch as a shock absorber.
  4. Rig the bait: Attach your bait or lure to the leader. In deep drop fishing, you may use a multi-hook rig with heavy weights to reach significant depths.
  5. Deploy the line: Begin letting out the line, pay attention to the color changes. Each color change indicates a specific distance or depth based on the length of the color segments. Use the color segments to accurately gauge how much line you’ve let out and the depth of your bait. The count of color changes will tell you the exact distance from the reel to the bait.
  6. Find the right depth: Once you’ve reached the desired depth, engage the reel and wait for a bite, keeping a keen eye on the line and rod tip for any signs of activity.
  7. Strike and retrieve: Set the hook with a firm but controlled motion when you detect a bite. The metered line’s low stretch will help with effective hook setting. Reel in the fish, being mindful of the weight and the resistance. The color changes on the line can also help you gauge how far the fish is from the boat.

Safety Considerations 

Deep drop fishing involves venturing into deep ocean waters — often miles offshore — and presents unique safety challenges. Always check weather forecasts and sea conditions before heading out. Deep-sea conditions can change rapidly, so knowing what to expect and having contingency plans is essential.

Before you head out, make sure your boat is in proper working order and equipped with the necessary safety equipment, such as life jackets, fire extinguishers, flares, and a first aid kit. Wear suitable clothing, including non-slip footwear, sun protection, and potentially foul weather gear if conditions warrant. 

Finally, use gloves and protective eyewear when handling hooks, rigs, and other sharp equipment. As long as you’re well prepared and use the right equipment, deep dropping will be the adventure of a lifetime.

Where and How To Catch January Lay Lake Bass with GPS Coordinates for Ten Spots

How To Catch January Lay Lake Bass with Matt Herren

 Its cold outside, the rut is making it a good time to go deer hunting and you might not be thinking much about fishing. But the big spotted bass at Lay Lake are on a very predictable pattern and you can catch some of the biggest spots of the year right now.

Lay Lake on the Coosa River east of Birmingham is known for its big spotted bass.  The Alabama Power Lake dammed in 1914 produces three and four pounds spots consistently and bigger fish are caught each year. There is also a good population of largemouth but in the winter the spotted bass fishing is more consistent.

Matt Herren grew up fishing Lay Lake and other Coosa River lakes in the area. His father took him fishing in ponds and on Lay Lake as a kid and they watched some tournament weigh-ins and got interested in tournament fishing.  They started fishing wildcat tournaments on Lay Lake in 1988.

From his success there he entered the Redman tournaments in 1989 and came in second in the points standings in the BAMA Division that first year.  By 2003 he was fishing the FLW Tour and now fishes the BASS Elite trail. 

Since turning pro, Matt has qualified for six BASSMaster Classics, including the 2016 tournament, and six FLW Championships.  This past year he tied for 10th place in the Angler of the Year point’s standings in BASS. In his career he has won over 1.2 million dollars in tournaments.

“In January the shad are moving up the river an into the creeks and the big spots are following them and feeding,” Matt said.  He prefers to go after quality spots up the river if possible rather than fishing further down the lake.  He said you can catch fish any day in January further down the lake but for the big ones he wants to fish up the river from the Locust Creek area to the Neely Henry Dam.

The day we went in early December the river was not fishable. We checked the Neely Henry Dam and all floodgates were open and all generators running. The river was three or four feet high and the current extremely strong.  When it is like that the fish hunker down and are very hard to catch since you can’t even control your boat very well. So we made lemonade, fishing from the Highway 280 Bridge downstream, and Matt caught some fish under very tough conditions.

No matter which way he goes Matt will have the same baits rigged.  His prime bait is a three eights to one half ounce Santone Lures Texas Finesse Jig tipped with a Reaction Innovations Petite Twerk or Smallie Beaver trailer. He goes with browns and greens if the water is clear or darker colors like black and blue if the water is stained.

A Santone three eights to one and one half ounce white or chartreuse and white spinnerbait is good for covering water faster, and he uses heavier baits the deeper he is fishing. A DT 6 or DT 10 crankbait in shad colors is also good for covering water and finding fish.

A Megabass 110 jerkbait and a Santone Piglet Shaky Head round out his arsenal of lures. The shaky head will have a Reactions Innovations Pocket Rocket worm on it.  With those lures fished on a Kistler Rod with the action for that lure, teamed with Gamma fluorocarbon line, covers all the types of cover and structure he wants to fish in January.

The following places give you a variety of kinds of spots to fish, no matter what the conditions. If the river is high and fast fish the first six and similar places downstream. If it is normal, with some current but not so fast you can’t fish effectively, fish upstream from the Highway 280 Bridge.

1.  N 33 17.626 – W 86 21.462 – We put in at Pop’s Landing in Tallaseehatchee Creek in Childersburg and started fishing at the mouth of it.  When the current is strong the fish will often hold in the mouths of sloughs and creeks like this and feed in the eddies there.  Start by casting a spinnerbait right to the rocks on the riprap bank on the downstream point since the fish will often be right on the bank. 

As you get out into the river work downstream on the same side and fish all the way to the Highway 280 Bridge.  If the current is strong point your boat upstream and let it drift downstream holding it as slow as you can with your trolling motor. Cast at an angle upstream, letting your bait work back to the boat with the current. Fish a crankbait and spinnerbait here, then follow up with a jig and pig.

Cast the jig right to the bank and use a heavy enough jig to keep it on the bottom in the current. If the water is high try to get your bait down to the rocks along the edge of the normal full pool channel. Bass will often hunker down behind those rocks and feed on baitfish and crawfish washed to them.

When you get to the bridges work the eddies behind the pilings on both the railroad and highway bridge. Matt got a keeper spot on his jig behind one of these pilings when we fished.

2. N 33 16.711 – W 86 23.289 – Running down the river the houses and docks stop and you will go a good ways down to the mouth of Bailey Creek opening on your left without seeing any docks.  There is a picnic pavilion on the point and a dock just inside the upstream point, with riprap around it.

Stop on the upstream side of the slough and work the point as you go downstream. Cast into the slough and work a spinnerbait, crankbait and jig and pig back out to the eddy of the current. Also fish the downstream point of the slough.

If the current is real strong you can position your boat inside the mouth of the slough and cast your bait out, working it into the eddies on both points like a baitfish coming from the river into the slough.

3.  N 33 16.353 – W 86 24.664 – Running down the river just before it starts a bend to the right you will see some big rocks on the bank on your left. This marks the start of a bluff outside bend of the river and is an excellent place to catch spots in January.

Start at the first visible rocks and fish downstream, keeping your boat in about 25 feet of water and casting to the edge of the water. Work your bait back out to about 15 feet deep.  A jig and pig and a shaky head worm are both good here.

You can fish a long way down this bank since it is a sweeping outside bend and the rocks run all along it. Rocks are the key this time of year, if they have baitfish on them. Watch your depthfinder and if you are not seeing balls of bait don’t spend a lot of time in the area.

It is good to fish your bait with the current no matter how fast the current is moving. Some current is good and will make the fish bite better, even if the water is very cold.  If the current is normal work upstream, casting ahead of the boat at an angle as you work into the current.

4.  N 33 16.976 – W 86 25.636 – Across the river and downstream Deer Lick Creek enters the river as it starts a big horseshoe bend to the left. This big creek has a house trailer on the downstream point well back from the river.  The upstream point of it has a defined underwater point coming off it and bass will feed on it in all current situations.

Stop upstream of the slough and fish the upstream point as you go past it. Then swing around into the slough and fish across it, casting your jig and pig and jig head worm out into the river and bringing it up and across the point.  There are some stumps on the point that hold fish so probe for them with your baits.

5.  N 33 14.547 – W 86 27.443 – Run on down the lake to the power plant on your right.  This coal fired steam plant discharges warm water into the river and that warmer water draws shad and bass to it in January.  Stop just upstream of the discharge and fish downstream.

Cast a spinnerbait or crankbait into the discharge and let the current carry it downstream as you fish it back. The river current and the discharge current will make eddies here that the bass hold in to feed so concentrate on them.

Also, fish a jig and pig or jighead in the discharge and downstream of it, too. The warmer water will say near the bank going downstream, making it better this time of year. 

6. N 33 13.382 – W 86 27.840 – Further down the river the channel splits into three parts with islands separating them. The main marked channel is to the left side going downstream.  Just upstream of the first marker where the channel goes to the left is a bluff bank. There is a house trailer sitting on top of the bluff upstream of the channel marker.

Stop out in front of this trailer and fish downstream, letting the current take your boat downstream backwards. Fish to the shallow gravel point where the bluff runs out and there is a small cove. 

Fish the bluff bank and the big rocks on it with a jig and pig and jig head worm.  Your boat should be in 25 feet of water a short cast off the bank. The current was almost too strong to fish here the day we went, even this far downstream, but Matt got a good keeper spot and we both missed fish in the current.

When you get to the shallow gravel point near the channel marker fish all over it with your jig and pig and jig head worm, too. Fish will run in on this point to feed.

7.  N 33 19.766 – W 86 21.839 – The following places are all upstream of the Highway 280 Bridge and you can fish them for big spots as long as the floodgates are not open. One or two generators running produce enough current to improve the fishing but more than that makes it tough.

Go to the water intake tower on the right going upstream. It is just downstream of the golf course.  This big structure breaks the current and bass will stack up on the downstream side of it as well as in front where pipes or indentions create an eddy.

Keep your boat downstream and cast a spinnerbait and crankbait up past the building and let them come back with the current. If you can hold your boat on the downstream side just downstream of the structure cast a spinnerbait to the wall and let if flutter down it. Also fish your jig head worm and jig and pig down the walls in the eddies.

8.  N 33 20.157 – W 86 22.112 – Across the river and a little upstream is the mouth of Locust Creek. If the current is very strong you can fish it like the ones downstream but if the current is right start at it and work upstream.

Matt likes to slowly work up the river bank, casting at an angle ahead of the boat, all the way to the powerlines. He will work a crankbait or spinnerbait from the edge of the water back to the boat. If the fish are holding deeper along the bank he will go to a heavier spinnerbait to get down to them. He will also work a heavier jig and pig or jig head worm to keep it on the bottom deeper.

9.  N 33 22.176 – W 86 20.567 – Something different that is always good in the winter, no matter what the conditions, is the back end of Flipper Creek where there is a big spring.  The spring keeps the water a steady temperature, must warmer than the river water in the winter, which draws shad and bass, and it will be clearer if the river muddies up.

Go in the mouth of Flipper Creek and to the very back of it. You will be right beside the road and railroad that are in the back end of it just up the bank.  Fish all the way around the area in the back, working all your baits around the wood cover here. Also cast right down the middle of the area to cover the bottom there.

10.  The following spots are between the upstream railroad bridge and the Logan Martin Dam. Most of them are very similar and they are easy to find.  The first is the railroad bridge itself. Matt says to fish all the pilings on it with spinnerbait, crankbait and jigs.  Work the eddies caused by these pilings, just like at the downstream railroad bridge and the Highway 280 bridge.

Rateliffes Island is a big island that splits the river upstream of the railroad bridge. Just upstream of it is the mouth of Kelly Creek on your left and you can fish the mouth of it like the other creek mouths if the current is strong.  If the current will let you, Matt says fish the banks on either side of it for a half mile both ways. Work up the current casting ahead of the boat and fishing all your baits back with the current.

Just across from Kelly Creek and a little upstream the right bank going upstream is an outside bend of the river Matt says fish it for a mile going upstream, as long as the rocks hold up on the outside bend.  This is a typical bank that drops off fast and has rocks that you need to fish. Baitfish in the area makes it much better.

A little further upstream there is a small island not far off left the bank.  Fish the banks on both sides of it and behind it, too.  As in all places, look for current breaks to hold fish.

Matt warns that you should always wear your life jacket when up the river. The current is dangerous and the cold water can make you lose control of your muscles fast. Don’t take chances.

You can catch some quality spots right now on Lay Lake. Follow Matt’s suggestions for baits to use and kinds of places to fish and you will soon forget it is winter.

Matt does not guide but he is setting up an on the water electronics school. He will show you how to set up your Hummingbird electronics like his boat is equipped and show you how to use them to find fish. He can do the same for Lowrance units. You can contact him through his Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/matt.herren.52

Fight to Stop the Banning of Lead Fishing Products – Protect The Use Of Traditional Tackle

Protect The Use Of Traditional Tackle – Stop the Lead Ban

  • from The Fishing Wire

Efforts are underway to prevent the use of lead tackle for fishing despite scant evidence that using lead has a harmful impact on wildlife populations.

Please use the resources below to learn more about this important issue and how to engage your company and consumers to protect our industry.

Earlier this year, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) announced plans to prohibit the use of lead tackle in several national wildlife refuges. Banning lead tackle will deter fishing participation and, given the lack of scientific basis for the ban, sets the stage for future unwarranted restrictions. We need people to reach out to USFWS to support the use of traditional tackle by August 22.

While we are hoping to work in consultation with USFWS, recent legislation was also introduced in Congress to address this issue. The Protecting Access for Hunters and Anglers Act, was introduced in both chambers of Congress. If passed, this new bill would prohibit federal land management agencies from banning the use of traditional lead tackle and ammunition on public lands unless such action is supported by the best available science and has state wildlife and fish agency approval.

What’s the issue

The recreational fishing community fully supports conservation, and we have a long record of making changes and sacrifices that help the environment. However, conservation must be rooted in sound science. The USFWS provides no evidence that lead fishing tackle is harming any specific wildlife populations in the proposed areas. This proposal is a proverbial “camel’s nose under the tent” that could escalate to much broader and equally baseless restrictions on your ability to fish.

Why it matters

Anglers and hunters are America’s original conservationists. The nation depends on their continued ability to fish and hunt to maintain public lands.

Anglers around the country depend on the performance and affordability of lead, especially in sinkers and jigs. While alternatives exist, they come with tradeoffs in cost and/or performance. Protecting traditional tackle from unwarranted bans is critical for ensuring that anglers can enjoy the sport. Banning lead will also potentially impact fishing license sales and ultimately reduce funding available for conservation. It is important that our industry makes a compelling case to the USFWS that anglers should be able to continue the use of traditional tackle.

What ASA is doing

In addition to the hard work of the ASA Government Affairs team, ASA has been engaging KAF supporters nationwide urging them to submit comments to the USFWS during the open comment period which closes on August 22. We have also asked supporters to write letters to their Members of Congress in support of the Protecting Access for Hunters and Anglers Act. In addition, we are actively promoting the issue widely through podcasts and social media.

On June 22, 2023, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) made an announcement to proceed with prohibitions on lead fishing tackle throughout several national wildlife refuges in which hunting and fishing opportunities are being expanded. ASA issued a statement in response the USFWS announcement.

On August 22, 2023, ASA submitted a letter on the 2023-2024 Station-Specific Hunting and Sport Fishing Regulations for the National Wildlife Refuge System, expressing our concerns with the proposed bans on lead fishing tackle in seven refuges.

What you can do

Write your Members of Congress

Write your Members of Congress urging them to support the Protecting Access for Hunters and Anglers Act. Click here to see sample letters and text

TAKE ACTION

Share on Social Media

Post about this issue on your social media platforms and direct your followers to our Keep America Fishing action alert.

Send an Invitation to Policymakers

Invite your policymakers to your facility to help them understand the importance of our industry and your contribution to the industry. Please reach out to Mike Leonard at mleonard@asafishing.org for help.

Where and How To Catch March Lake Demopolis Bass

with Will Ayres

 Grass and bass go together in March like liver and onions on Lake Demopolis.  Longer days and warming water both draw bass to the shallows to feed and get ready to spawn.  They chase bait in the grass and you can catch them with a variety of baits.

Demopolis is a river lake with its dam just downstream of the junction of the Black Warrior and Tombigbee Rivers.  It is the second largest lake in the Black Warrior-Tombigbee system and runs 48 miles upriver on the Black Warrior River and 53 miles up the Tombigee River. Both rivers have creeks, sloughs and ditches running out from them.  These calm waters are where largemouth head to spawn so they can be found in or near the mouths of them this month.

There are spots in the rivers, too, and you can catch some big ones, but you need to have rocks for spots. So you have two good patterns in March, grass for largemouth and rocks for spots. Some baits are good for both and some are better for one or the other, but your bait choice is controlled more by the cover than the species you seek.

Will Ayres grew up in Demopolis and has lived there all his life.  When he was 12 years old he got his first boat and his dad would pick him up from school towing the boat and take him to the river where he would fish until dark.  He knows it well and fishes as many tournaments on Demopolis and Millers Ferry as he can.

When he was 16 Will joined the River City Bassmasters. He also fishes the McNider Marine trail, Bass Addiction team trail and other local and pot tournaments.  Since he has a young son with a daughter on the way, Will sticks with his local area. When the kids are older he hopes to move up to bigger tournaments but last year, fishing just two lakes, he won $26,000!

“Baitfish are the key especially early in March,” Will said. Warmer days kick in the largemouth pre-spawn feeding spree and the bass want a lot of food. And they will be near the spawning areas.  To catch them you need only a few baits.  Will rigs a Rat-L-Trap, a spinnerbait, a jig and pig and a Texas rigged worm to cover all his fishing bases.

For spotted bass fishing Will with have a 5XD crankbait in sexy shad color and a Davis three eights ounce shaky head jig with a green pumpkin or Junebug Trick worm on it. He likes to dip his worms in clear JJs Magic to give them a strong garlic smell and sometimes dips the tails in chartreuse for a flash spots love.

Will took me out the first week of February. The weekend before we went, he and his partner landed a limit of bass weighing 17.6 with a 5.5 pound kicker.  The fish were already on the pattern they will be on in March and were feeding when we went.  We caught about 40 keeper bass on the following holes and the best five weighed about 16 pounds.

N. 32 32.081 – W 87 51.192 – Going upstream the Black Warrior River splits to the right and the Tombigee River goes straight ahead.  Go into the Black Warrior and just a couple of hundred yards upstream on your left sawgrass starts lining the bank. In the middle of it a slough opens behind the grass. There are two ditches coming out of the slough with the one downstream much wider.

Stop just downstream of the lower opening and fish upstream.  While fishing watch for birds feeding along the edge of the grass and baitfish action against it. If either are present it means bass are likely to be feeding or holding just off the bank waiting to feed. 

The morning we fished there were a couple of birds on the bank and we saw baitfish dimpling the surface, and a few swirls as fish had breakfast.  In the next hour we landed at least a dozen keeper largemouth. The fish were hitting a red Trap for Will but he said the weekend before his spinnerbait worked better here, so try both.

Throw your Trap and spinnerbait right against the edge of the grass as you fish to the first opening.  At the opening throw into it across the points on both sides.  Fish on up to the mouth of the second ditch and a little way past it. Some current moving here helps.

Watch back in the slough, too, for baitfish, birds and bass activity.  The water is very shallow but it is the kind of place bass spawn so they will be back in here, especially later in March. Go into it and work all three of your baits in here, fishing the grass edges in the slough.

2.  N 32 31.088 – W 87 48.981 – Running up the Black Warrior you will see a big cement plant on the right bank.  It is on an outside bend of the river and there is a barge landing there. Downstream of the landing a tall bulkhead wall rises from the edge of the river.  Just downstream of the bulkhead is a small ditch and on the right side of it you can see an old railroad causeway.

This is a good place to catch spots but some largemouth feed here, too.  There are rocks on the bottom and current hits the bulkhead and old railroad causeway debris in the water, moving baitfish along the bank and drawing in bass. 

Stop just downstream of the ditch and cast a crankbait or Trap right to the edge of the water around it. Work up to the bulkhead and get you boat in close to it and fish crankbait and jig head parallel along it. There are rocks and other cover along the base of the wall.  Will stops when his boat gets to the upstream end of the wall, making a few casts to the bank past it.

3.  N 32 31.430 – W 87 48.302 – Run upstream to French Creek on the right and go into it. It is a huge creek but the opening is very small with a no wake buoy in the mouth of the ditch and another one back where the ditch opens up. Idle past the second one then go to the point on the right side just downstream of where the houses on the bank start.

This point has grass along it near the bank and some stumps out on the flat bottom.   Will says this is a good place to catch big largemouth and spots in March. They move in off the river and stop on this point as they work into the creek to spawn, holding here and filling up on baitfish.

Keep your boat out a long cast from the edge of the water and cast your Trap and spinnerbait close to the bank. Run both baits by any patches of grass out from the edge. Keep your bait moving slowly all the way to the boat since there are scattered stumps off the bank to hold fish.  Fish all the way around the point to the bank of it near the fist house.

4. N 32 31.546 – W 87 48.097 – Across the creek one docks floats way off the bank.  Go across just upstream of it. Be careful until you lean this creek, it is shallow.  Just upstream of the dock a flat anvil shaped point runs out and has big oak trees on either end of it.

Start out from the upstream end and fish downstream around that end of the point. Throw your Trap and spinnerbait against the bank and run them past clumps of grass just like in Hole 3.  Bass hold and feed along this bank, too, as they move in to spawn.

5.  N 32 31.403 – W 87 47.725 – Carefully going up French Creek, you will come to where it splits into two arms. The left arm goes back under a powerline. Go into this small creek and stop on the outside of the first point in it on your left, before you get to the powerlines.  It is covered with grass and is a good stopping point as the bass move into this creek to spawn. The point is fairly deep and has some rock on it, too.

This point is better from the middle of the month to the end. More and more fish will move back as the water warms and you can catch numbers of fish. But fish it early, too, since the bigger bass often move in to spawn earlier than the majority of bass. You may not get many bites on your Trap or Spinnerbait but could be grown one.

6.  N 32 31.320 – W 87 47.720 – Go across the mouth of the small creek to the upstream point of it. This flat point runs out to a small island and has grass all along the point, gap between the bank and island, and the island itself.  Fish the point and out to the island and around it with Trap and Spinnerbait.

Some wind blowing in on places like this helps move baitfish to the area and position bass to feed on them. A gentle wind will also move the warmer surface water to banks like this, warming them a little deeper than the main lake or points out of the wind. That can make them even more attractive to bass.

7.  N 32 33.422 – W 87 47.580 – Go back out to the river and head upstream. You will go under a set of big powerlines over the river then a straight before it  makes a right bend. While you are running up the straight stretch, when you see an orange roof house and dock ahead of you in the bend on the left bank, slow down and watch to your right.  You will see a small ditch that leads back to a big oxbow lake just off the river. We had to go through the ditch with the trolling motor since the lake was down a little. Go through it and when it opens up the water will get deeper.  This oxbow runs way back along the river and is a big spawning area.

Go in and ease to the point on the right where the oxbow bends to the right. A lot of standing timber starts at this turn and bass will hold in it. The point on the right is a prime feeding place for big fish and numbers of fish this month. We caught several keepers along this point and on the bank across from it, too.

Fish the whole area with all your baits.  Work the grass as well as the stumps sticking out of the water.  You can fish all the way to the back and Hole #8 or fish around the point, the key area, then idle through the stump field to the point in the back.

8. N 32 33.329 – W 87 47.542 –  Almost in the very back, where the oxbow makes a left then right bend, there is another very good point on the left. It is one of the last feeding areas before the bass bed, and they will bed all over this area.  Fish all around it on both sides and the outside bend across from it with all your baits.

I caught a couple of bass in here on a black and blue jig and pig. Will makes his own jigs that come through the grass and he gave me one.  I put a blue Zoom Fat Albert twin tail on it but Will prefers a black or blue Little Critter Craw.  He fishes the jig or a Texas rigged green pumpkin or June Bug Trick worm behind a three sixteenths ounce sinker

Both jig and pig and Texas rig are fished around the grass and wood cover, moving them slowly along the bottom until you hit cover, then shaking them before hopping the baits over the cover. Feeding bass will hit both as will bass already on the bad that you cannot see due to the stained water.

9.  N 32 34.342 – W 87 47.004 – Run up the river and watch on your right for red channel marker 226.8.  The numbers are on a small, faded sign near the red marker and hard to see.  Upstream of the marker a ditch goes out on the right and opens up into creek that is an excellent spawning creek and fills with feeding bass in March. Will says it is a great place to catch numbers and size.

This creek is small enough to fish all the way around it, and we did.  Start on the left at a cut going back – there is a matching ditch on the other side.  Fish the grass all the way to the back and out the other side.  You could stay in this protected creek all day.

Will picked up an individual fish as we worked around this creek on both Trap and spinnerbait, then we hit a small pocket behind a little point on the left going out.  The wind was blowing into the creek and the calm area behind the point held a school of fish.

Will caught fish after fish on spinnerbait and I caught a couple on a Chatterbait. We would see baitfish dimpling regularly and a swirl of a feeding fish every so often. We sat in one place and caught at least a dozen keepers without moving.  You can hit a school like that at any time on any of these places.

10.  N 32 35.169 – W 87 46.844 – Way up the river the Alabama Power Green County Plant sits on the left side of the river.  There is a canal going off the river on the left running up to the plant, and it has an outflow of warm water from the plant.  The right side of the canal is natural rock and the left side is riprap up to the barge unloading piers. The plant changed from coal to gas so there are no longer lines of barges with coal waiting to unload along this side.

Start on the downstream point of the canal.  Spots love this point and the canal itself. Will says so many tournaments were won with limits of big spots from this area the canal was put off limits by some groups.

Fish the point with Trap and crankbait if current is moving, then fish it with your shaky head.  Work into the canal, fishing up all the way to the plant.  Stay in near the bank and cast a crankbait up ahead of your boat to make it come back with the current as you go upstream. The current and warmer water both attract fish.

Will caught a couple of small spots here on a crankbait, but there was no current moving when we were there.  If the current is not moving you can stay in the area and wait on a discharge to turn on the fish, then load the boat when it happens.

All these places were already holding bass a few weeks ago and will be better now, and get better and better as March progresses. Check them out and you can find many similar places on Demopolis to fish this month.  

Offseason Targets for Freshwater and Saltwater Fish

Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets for Freshwater and Saltwater Fish

  • from The Fishing Wire

Switching gears to crappie

Bass Pro Tour angler Mark Rose loves bass fishing, but fishing for crappies is a true passion he’s had since his teen years. It also offers a nice change of pace and off-season target after the tournaments wrap up.

“I love crappies because I don’t compete in tournaments for them – it’s my joy,” he said. “I take it just as seriously as bass fishing for my preparation. I still get up at 4 a.m., make a thermos of coffee, put on my coveralls, and make sure my gear is ready to go. Plus, I don’t think anything in freshwater tastes as good as cold-water crappie.”

While he can catch them anytime around his Arkansas home, October and November are when things are about perfect.

“Crappies are like bass as they are always following the baitfish,” he said. “When the surface temperatures drop and we get the cooler nights, the shad will migrate to deeper water. That’s my favorite time to fish for crappie, and I spend my time searching and hunting for them with my forward-facing sonar. It could be over brush or standing timber, just somewhere over deeper water where the shad are.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 1

His approach is straightforward and he utilizes either a 1/16 or 1/8-ounce Strike King Mr. Crappie Jig Head with either a Strike King Lightning Shad or Shadpole on the back. He uses a 6-foot, 6-inch medium-light spinning rod and size 100 spinning reel spooled with 4 lb Seaguar Tatsu fluorocarbon.

Seaguar Tatsu

Instead of the normal braid-to-fluorocarbon that he uses for bass fishing, he likes the feel of straight fluorocarbon when targeting crappies.

“The thin line cuts through the water better with small baits and you don’t have any draft so that you can get right to the fish quicker,” he said. “You also want a little stretch from the fluorocarbon and if you use braid without stretch, you’ll pull the hooks from the crappie’s mouths. I choose Tatsu because of how manageable it is. You don’t get line memory as easily, even on a tiny spinning reel.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 2

Seaguar and MLF Pro Gerald Spohrer likes chasing saltwater fish in the Gulf

Offshore with Spohrer

Just about any time Gerald Spohrer is home from tournaments, off-season or not, he’s likely either on his 33-foot Encore catamaran or preparing for a trip. It’s a significant part of his life and his location is in the heart of excellent saltwater fishing near Venice, Louisiana.

“We are constantly switching it up and pretty much going after what species is good at the moment,” he said. “If we hear tuna fishing is on fire, then we go. We alternate between grouper, snapper, and tuna and go after swordfish. This year, I will spend a lot more time targeting blue marlin because I’d like to start entering tournaments for them.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 3

The marlin bite is something that has captured Spohrer’s passion. Similarly to bass fishing, it’s a very technical approach, where they either troll surface lures and teasers or use live bait that’s a size that would be a great catch for someone.

“We’re using live baby tuna that are between 5 and 25-pounds and have specialized ‘tuna tubes’ on the boat to keep them alive and in moving water,” he said. “We fish them on 80 lb Seaguar Threadlock braid with a top shot of monofilament and then crimp it to either 150 or 200 lb Seaguar Fluoro Premier leader for the marlin.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 4

When chasing other species, he also uses the same line combination, just altering the sizes based on the quarry. “That’s the theme with all of my saltwater gear: Threadlock and Fluoro Premier,” he says. “Threadlock is a hollow-core braid that is great for splicing your leader, but you can also use it with an FG Knot and it’s an excellent braid that casts well and goes through the guides easily,” he said. “Fluoro Premier is our choice because of how abrasion resistant it is. We use it for everything out there.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 5

Seaguar and MLF Pro Luke Clausen looks forward to caching trophy walleye on his days off

Walleyes when it’s cold

Washington’s Luke Clausen is blessed to live in the Pacific Northwest, a region with excellent fishing and many different target species. Bass is his primary target during the fall, but it’s walleye time as the water continues to cool.

Washington has excellent walleye fishing with both numbers and world-class-sized fish. It can be done all year long and since the Columbia River and other moving waters rarely freeze, it’s sometimes the only option for anglers looking to launch their boats in the winter months. The bite heats up every year when the temperatures plunge.

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 6

Clausen is a fan of walleye and catches some monsters every year while also filling his freezer with smaller fish. He employs many techniques to catch them on large flats in the river, from small jigs and grubs to metal blade baits.

“A blade bait like a black and gold Jackall Keeburn is my top bait because of how well it works and because you can fish it relatively fast,” he said. “It catches them quickly and big ones will bite it, too. I fish it on the same setup I do for drop-shot fishing for bass, with 15 lb Seaguar Smackdown Braid, but I will use a little heavier fluorocarbon leader.”

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Bass Pro Anglers Offseason Targets 7

Clausen opts for a 10 to 12-lb Seaguar Red Label fluorocarbon for his leader material for blade baits for one reason: efficiency.

“It’s a lot stiffer than the other Seaguar fluorocarbon lines and that makes a big difference with a blade bait,” he said. “The baits tend to twirl on the cast and get hung up and the stiffer line prevents a lot of the fouling and you don’t have nearly the amount of wasted casts. I will go to Gold Label for other techniques for walleye since they can be line shy and will use it anytime I’m fishing slower and they have longer to look at the bait.”

Even though professional bass anglers fish constantly, they still spend their free time fishing for fun. While the target species may be different, their love of fishing keeps them on the water all year long.

Seaguar Tatsu Fluorocarbon mainline is available from 4 to 25 lb test on 200 and 1,000- yard spools

Seaguar Big Game Fluoro Premier is available from 100lb to 200 lb test in 25, 50 and 110-yard coils.
Seaguar Threadlock braid is available in blue and white in 600 and 2500-yard spools with 50 to 200 lb test lines

Seven Reasons To Use Braid For Fishing

Seven Reasons To Use Braid For Fishing, but how many can you come up with for not using it?

  • from The Fishing Wire

The reason anglers turn to braid over mono are countless, but there are times mono is better.

Here’s the top seven reasons to choose braid over mono:

  1. Braid does not stretch like mono, allowing the angler to feel everything touching the lure or bait. Mono lines can stretch well over 100% causing many bites to be unnoticed.
  2. Braids typically offer 4-6 times smaller diameters than Mono of the same tensile strength (pound test).
  3. Braids being smaller in diameter allows the angler to cast further with light lures, giving the angler the opportunity to reach productive spots not available when fishing mono.
  4. Braids also allow the angler to use lighter reels as the braid diameter will allow for more yardage in smaller volume, at the end of the day your arms will thank you.
  5. Braids do not develop memory like mono will so they cast without the coiling associated with monofilament which will slow down your presentation and reduce casting distance.
  6. Braids do not deteriorate with exposure to UV light thus there is no need to change out braid until it shows obvious signs of wear which takes a lot of use. Mono must be changed more often as UV sun exposure breaks down mono lines.
  7. Braided lines are more resistant to abrasions, making fishing easier around rocks, structures, and underwater obstacles.

How Rod Handles Are Made from St Croix

HOW IT’S MADE

Rod HANDLES

How It’s Made: Handles

St. Croix delivers the Best Rods on Earth by combining angler-driven research and development, industry-leading design an innovation gained from 75 years of experience, the highest-quality materials, passionate and precise craftsmanship from people who care, and the most advanced rod-manufacturing facilities in the world. All of these things contribute to the pride and satisfaction you feel when you fish one of our rods, but we never assume that’s enough. 

Handle design is a key factor is fishing-rod design. While a rod’s blank – its materials, length, power, and action – forms the foundation for how it will perform, its handle dictates how the angler will interface with the rod and, ultimately, experience that performance. 

Being an angler-driven company, St. Croix is constantly leveraging angler feedback. Our deep and diverse angling staff – from professional guides and tournament anglers to hardcore fishing-lifestyle enthusiasts – is one of our most valuable resources. We rely heavily on these and other anglers to help increase our understanding of the nuances of how each of our rods are used in various techniques and presentations. This helps or Product and Engineering Teams design handles that maximize both comfort and performance.

Handle Materials

St. Croix Rod Handle Assembly

St. Croix uses a variety of handle materials from traditional premium cork and premium EVA, to ultra-durable agglomerated cork, cork composite, carbon fiber, and other proprietary materials like Xtreme-Skin. Many of our handle designs combine these materials. These proven materials are specified on different rod models depending on how and where the subject rods will be used. Comfort, durability, energy transmission, and a rod’s target price point are a few of the primary factors that guide these decisions.

Handle Design 

Handle design – its form, dimensions, proportions, and how it blends with the reel seat and blank – is largely dictated by angler trends, meaning how a specific rod will be used. 

“Handle design on a new rod starts with a product brief for that particular rod series,” says St. Croix Engineering Supervisor, Gavin Falk. “We’re looking at what the rod is and how it will be used, then investigating things like how anglers position their hands when using those techniques. The product brief also considers the price point we want the new rod series to sell at. These factors help us decide the basic handle-design parameters, as well as our options for materials. We come up with preliminary designs and then start testing those designs through production.”

St. Croix Rod Hybrid Cork and Premium EVA Grip

Falk says in-house 3-D printing technology has significantly evolved St. Croix’s handle-design capabilities. “Once we have a preliminary design, we can print a grip the same day it is modeled,” he says. “We build test rods with those 3-D-printed grips and let our team of beta testers fish them. We take their feedback concerning functionality and aesthetics and can quickly make adjustments. We check specs, refine designs, confirm fit with reel seats, then 3-D print the next versions. Once the design has been confirmed, we design accent pieces and build versions with the actual materials. Those designs are then re-tested and confirmed in the field. We repeat the process until everything is finalized.”

The handle-design process results in detailed engineering drawings for each specific rod model. Those documents also specify the materials, and procedures – order of operations, gluing, the use of any arboring materials, etc. – for assembling the handles onto the rods on the manufacturing floor. “We source our various handle materials from a handful of trusted suppliers from around the world,” Falk says. “These are relationships we’ve worked very hard to build and maintain. Whether it’s cork, carbon fiber, or another material, everything is provided to our demanding specifications, so we know exactly what we’re getting.”

From the proprietary Xtreme Skin handles found on Legend Xtreme and Legend Xtreme Inshore and the carbon handles on our various Onchor models, to our GRASP-equipped handles on Legend Tournament Musky and select bass-fishing swimbait models, St. Croix is continually innovating handle design for the benefit of anglers. Combining materials – like premium cork, premium EVA, and soft rubber gimble butt caps on select inshore spinning models – is another way that we’re pushing the limits of rod-handle design to better support the ways anglers fish. Additionally, new materials like St. Croix’s agglomerated cork used on Skandic Ice and new Avid Inshore rods deliver all the benefits of traditional cork but with greatly increased durability.

St. Croix Rod Xtreme Skin

“Xtreme Skin is designed not only for angler comfort, but also for maximum energy transmission,” Falk says. “Similarly, the carbon handles on select Onchor Salmon and Steelhead models are very lightweight and durable but are also easy to keep clean and come in and out of rod holders easily by design,” he adds. “GRASP helps anglers fish longer by minimizing wrist fatigue during physically demanding presentations like musky fishing or while casting heavy swimbaits. And we’re seeing how our new ultra-durable agglomerated cork material keeps handles looking and fishing like new in demanding environments like those experienced during inshore saltwater and ice fishing.”

Introducing TRIGON

St. Croix Rod TRIGON Grip

St. Croix also carefully considers ergonomics. Ergonomics is a science focused on the study of “human fit” through what’s known as anthropometric data – the various measurements of the human body. In the case of St. Croix’s handle program, the latest example of ergonomic design comes in the form of an all-new TRIGON handle and accompanying Dynamix reel seat, carefully conceived to improve angler control while decreasing fatigue and discomfort.

“Our unique TRIGON handle recognizes that the human hand does not form a circle when closed, so we’re no longer limiting our handle designs to cylindrical forms,” says St. Croix Brand Manager, Ryan Teach. “TRIGON features a curved, triangular profile with a rounded inner apex and a flattened top curve to better fit the human hand. The results are a more comfortable grip so anglers can fish longer while exercising increased control to maximize power and accuracy.”

Teach adds that St. Croix’s use of the word ergonomic in its description the TRIGON handle is both valid and earned. “TRIGON’s design is based on actual anthropometric data of the human hand,” he says. “We went to one of the foremost experts in the field to make sure we got it right.”

St. Croix Rod TRIGON GRASP Grip

St. Croix engineers partnered with renown industrial designer, Paul Richardson of Rise Creative, over the past two years to perfect the TRIGON handle design and accompanying Dynamix reel seat. “TRIGON’s inner apex – the triangular point on the lower part of the grip promotes greater hand-to-blank alignment for dramatically improved control,” Richardson says. “Meanwhile, the flattened top curve of TRIGON creates greater hand comfort, which ultimately reduces fatigue and supports longer, more comfortable fishing. And the design’s benefits are further increased in the way of control when the angler moves his or her thumb to the flattened top curve. The accompanying Dynamix reel seat has been specifically designed to fully support TRIGON’s benefits by meshing perfectly with its unique profiles.”

“In order to accomplish the aggressive design dimensional points in the TRIGON design, traditional cork forming could not be used,” Teach says. “In addition to being ultra durable, agglomerated cork is completely customizable and represented the ideal material to support TRIGON’s complex dimensional specifications.”

Think of TRIGON as a bionic extension of yourself – the ultimate interface between an angler and their most important tool. The new TRIGON handle and Dynamix reel seat will be introduced this month at ICAST 2023 on St. Croix’s popular Mojo Bass Series, which has been updated, refreshed, and expanded for 2024. New Mojo Bass TRIGON rods will be available to anglers at St. Croix dealers worldwide beginning August 1.

Where and How to Catch April Bass at Lake Martin with GPS Coordinates

April Bass at Martin with Kelley Jaye

    April is the month most bass fishermen dream of, with big sow bass in shallow water on the bed and bass of all sizes roaming the shallows feeding.  It is a dream month for bass fishing, and you can make your dreams come true at Lake Martin.

    Martin is a big clear water lake north of Montgomery on the Tallapoosa River.  It is known for its spotted bass but it has a good population of largemouth, too.  By late March many largemouth buck bass will be in the shallows scouting for bedding spots and the big females will be close behind.

    Spotted bass will be feeding on deeper points and will start looking for bedding areas in April. They bed deeper and are hard to catch by sight fishing but are aggressive and will hit many baits fished where they are holding.  Spots are fun to catch and you can catch a bunch of them right now, but for tournament fishermen you want to fish for largemouth for a heavy stringer.

    Kelley Jaye has lived in Reeltown since he was 12 years old and has been fishing Martin since then. He has done well in tournaments on the lake, finishing second in the BFL Super Tournament there a couple of years ago.   This year he is fishing the FLW Everstart and BASS Open tournaments as well as local tournaments on Martin.

    On March 5 he came in 5th in the BFL on Martin with five spotted bass weighing 14.9 pounds.  Since the largemouth were not bedding yet he stuck with a jerk bait all day and caught the big spots.

    “April is a great month for both spotted bass and largemouth,” Kelley told me.  Spots are concentrated on points and can be caught on topwater baits, spinnerbaits, jerkbaits, jig head worms, a jig and pig and a Carolina rig.  Largemouth will slam a topwater bait early in the morning then you can sight fish for them on the beds with a jig head worm, Trick worm and a lizard.

    In tournaments Kelley will go to the bedding pockets first thing and go around them with a buzzbait or big stick bait like a Spook.  He works around the shallows fast looking for a reaction strike.  After the sun gets up he goes back around the shallows and throws a Trick worm or weightless lizard to bedding bass.

    To catch a lot of bass Kelley will fish secondary points in the bigger creeks and coves, looking for schools of spots.  A spinnerbait or jerk bait worked across the point early will get hit, as will a topwater bait.  After the sun gets up a jig head worm, jig and pig or Carolina rig will catch them.

    Kelley does not have any sponsors at this time so he uses baits and equipment he likes best.  He prefers a G Loomis rod and a Johnny Morris DBS reel with BPS fluorocarbon line for jigs and jig head worms or Suffix Monofilament line for topwater.

    For April Kelley will have a peanut butter half ounce Chompers jig with a twin tail brown trailer and a BPS quarter ounce jighead with a Zoom green pumpkin Speedworm tied on for spot fishing after the sun gets up.  He likes a Rogue jerk bait, a Spook and a one half ounce white and chartreuse spinnerbait with one gold and one silver blade for early fishing on the points.

    For largemouth the Spook works early as does a buzzsbait.  For later fishing he ties a five-0 hook and threads a Zoom Green pumpkin Trick worm on it.  He also likes a Zoom six or eight inch lizard rigged weightless for throwing around visible beds.  He expects to find largemouth bedding down to about four feet deep. If he needs the lizard to go a little deeper or if it is windy he will tie a swivel ahead of it to get it down.   

    We fished in early March the day before the BFL and Kelley showed me the following spots for April fishing. We caught about 15 spots, they were already feeding on points and they hit spinnerbaits, jerkbaits, jig head worms and jig and pig. By now even bigger spots will be feeding and the largemouth will be moving in.

    1. N 32 43.104 – W 85 50.155 – The very back of Spain Branch has a good spawning flat and is the kind of place you want to look for largemouth. Go back to the powerlines where they cross on the right side and start fishing. There are a lot of stumps on the point that comes out just past the powerlines and all over the flats in the back of the creek.

    Work around it before the sun gets bright with a topwater bait like a Spook or buzzbait. Make long cast and work the baits fast. You want to cover as much water as quickly as you can, searching for a reaction strike from a big largemouth.  If you can see stumps cast to them but it will be hard to spot cover or fish under water before the sun gets up.

    After sun up go around the cove watching for bass on the bed. Throw a weighless lizard to bass that don’t run off when you cast to them.  You don’t need to waste time casting to beds when the           fish swims way off when you spook it. Kelley says they are ready to hit when they stay within five or six feet of the bed, come right back, and pay attention to your lizard.

    2.  N 32 45.145 – W 85 51.456 – Across Blue Creek just upstream of the point with Union Ramp on the South Side of the creek and the long point coming toward it on the other side, there is an island just off the bank.  Downstream of this island is a shallow spawning pocket where bass move in early. There are a few stumps and some brush in it and it has a hard bottom, a requirement to draw bedding fish.

    Start on the right side at the metal roof dock with a kids slide on the bank to the right of it facing it.  Work the brush there and around the next small red dock. There is a good bit of brush the left of the red dock that will be in six or seven feet of water at full pool, and bass will hold in it before bedding.

    When the water temperature is 60 to 62 degrees first thing in the morning and warms to 65 to 67 in the afternoon Kelley says he knows he will find largemouth back in these pockets.  He expects to find two to four beds in a small pocket like this when the spawn is on.

    3.  N 32 43.624 – W 85 51.043 – Go back across to Cooper Branch and go past the two long points on your left going in.  Just past the second one the very back of the cove where Center Port Road bends around it is a good spawning area.  It is protected and lined with docks all the way around it.

    You will see twin houses with tin roofs on the right side going into the cove. One is brown and one is green. Start working the docks in front of them and work around the cove, fishing topwater early around the docks and brush then coming back and looking for bedding bass.

    Bass like to bed beside a stump or dock post so look closely at those kinds of areas.  Bass on the bed can be hard to spot but practice helps. Look for the black tip of the tail or any movement.  Watch them to see if they hang close to the bed or move off so you will know if they are ready to hit.

    4. N 32 42.878 – W 85 50.901 – In the back of Cooper Branch a point comes out with small cabins on it. This is Lake Martin RV Resort.  A good creek enters on the left side of it, facing it. This long narrow creek splits in the back and holds a lot of bedding bass.

    Go in and you can fish the steep bank on your right, there is a good bit of brush on it. Start across from the cabin with a patio house down the slope from it then a dock. All three have green roofs.  Work around both sides and the back for bedding bass.

    Where the creek splits past the green roof dock the cove straight ahead, the left fork, has a good channel coming out cutting through a flat.  Channels help draw bass in and coves with a ditch or channel are best. Kelley says bass will stage on the ditch and work in to the bedding spots, the use it working back out, too.

     5.  N 32 42.797 – W 85 41.503 – Come out of the cut above and go past the RV Resort, following that bank to your left.  You will round a point and see a big gray house with lots of tin roofs at different angles on it. It sits on a narrow rocky point that is a good example of the kind of places spotted bass hold and feeding in April. They may bed on these points, too.   

    Kelley likes to sit on the channel side of the point and throw across it, working it from shallow to deep. Start with a spinnerbait, jerk bait or topwater bait early in the morning.  If fish are hitting the jerk bait Kelley will often keep throwing it all day. He says sometimes big spots will eat the jerk bait all day. You won’t get m any bites but can catch some quality spots this way.

    Drag a jig head worm or jig and pig across the point, too. Kelley says he seldom uses a Carolina rig because he seems to catch bigger bass on the jig head worm, or jig and pig, but if you use one try a half ounce sinker with a green pumpkin lizard or Finesse worm following it.

    Kelley likes a quarter ounce BPS jig for his shaky head worm fishing and a half ounce Chompers jig with a twin tail trailer.  Work both slowly across the point with small hops and drags, covering the entire bottom on the point.

    6. N 32 42.527 – W 85 51.333 – Keep going toward the back of Cooper Branch and it splits to the left and right. Stay to your left going in and this narrow channel goes way back. There is a no wake buoy in the mouth of it and a danger marker in the center near the back. The danger marker is on a flat point that comes off the right bank.

    A good channel comes out of this cove and the flats on both sides of it are good bedding areas. It is very shallow back in here, especially if the lake is down some.  Bass will bed anywhere in the back of this creek so fish all around it.

    7.  N 32 43.127 – W 85 51.665 – Come out of the above cove and past the danger marker. Watch to your left and when you pass three coves running back to the left, there is a big point with some big new houses on it on your left.  Watch for the point with the gray house and you will see a big stump on the right tip of that point just off the seawall.

    Way off this point a hump comes up to about ten feet deep with the lake down six feet like it was when we were there. There is a big log and some trees on this point and it is a good place to work a jig head worm, jig and pig or Carolina rig.

    Kelley keeps his boat out in deep water and works all the way around the hump, throwing up on top of it and working his bait out to deeper water.  Probe for the log and brush and concentrate additional casts when you hit cover.

    8.  N 32 43.452 – W 85 52.246 – Go toward the mouth of Cooper Branch and into the last big cove on your left.  Ahead and on the right side of this big cove are several points. One with a “For Sale” sign on it has no house but there is a sculptured concrete sea wall around it.  This point has shale rock on the downstream side and two flat points run off the upstream side, across the cove above it. These points have smaller rock on them.

    All three areas hold bass. Fish them will all your baits. Stay out in deeper water and cast toward the bank, working your bait from shallow to deep. Also go past the point and cast back across it bringing your bait at a different angle.

    Some wind blowing in on this and other points makes them better for spinnerbait and jerk bait but more difficult to fish with a jig or jig head worm. Heavy wind will make them almost impossible to fish because you can not hold the boat in position.  Choose your bait based on the wind.

    9. N 32 44.896 – W 85 51.930 – Go back across Blue Creek and into the bog pocket across from Union Ramp. It is behind a big island.  The pocket splits into two arms running north. Go in the left one and start fishing just inside the right point. It has a smaller side cove to the left and a bigger cove to the right. It has a big brown house on the main point and a dock inside the point on your right going in.

    Fish all around this pocket with a Trick worm and watch for beds.  Fish the points, especially the one between the two coves, with jerk baits, jig head worm and jig and pig.  The smaller left hand cove has lots of trash in it from cleaning the lots so fish it carefully.

    10.  N 32 44.889 – W 85 51.762 – Go around the big main point between the two big coves and watch for a flat secondary point on your left. It is in front of a brown house with a rock patio. Just past the house the dock has two orange floats in front of it.

    Stay well off the bank and fish the point with a jig head worm and a jig and pig.  Hop and slide both baits down the slope of the point.  Keep your boat out in deep water and throw shallow, and fish all the way around the point.

    These places all are holding bass right now on Martin. Check them out to see the kinds of places Kelley fishes and you can find many similar places all over the lake to catch spots and largemouth.

BERKLEY “CULLS” POWERBAIT CULLSHAD SWIMBAIT, OFFERING CONSUMERS FREE REPLACEMENT BAIT

Due to manufacturing defects, BERKLEY “CULLS” POWERBAIT CULLSHAD SWIMBAIT, OFFERING CONSUMERS FREE REPLACEMENT BAIT

COLUMBIA, S.C. – In Spring 2023, Berkley Fishing introduced the CullShad to a great deal of fanfare and success among top-tier tournament anglers. After releasing the first batch of product to retailers, the quality assurance team at the company identified that this run of product did not live up to the company’s high standards and the Berkley promise to help anglers catch more fish. The issues include inconsistencies in the bait’s hardness and some deformities, both of which have negatively compromised the bait’s action which does not allow it to work as designed.

Berkley’s commitment remains to provide anglers with scientifically-backed baits that surpass expectations, so the company is enacting a plan to get a new batch of properly manufactured baits in the hands of anglers as quickly as possible.

To accomplish this, anyone who has purchased a CullShad is being asked to help the company “cull” them. Berkley will replace any purchased CullShad at no cost with one that performs as it should. There is no need to return anything but rather follow these simple and straightforward instructions to receive a replacement CullShad in the same color and size that meets the high standards established in the design process:

  • Take a picture of your CullShad(s) on or next to a piece of paper detailing your name and the date you’re submitting the photo.
  • Visit www.berkley-fishing.com/cullshad-replacement or use the QR code below to initiate the replacement process and upload your photo.
  • Fill in the required information and click submit. You should receive a confirmation email from Berkley.
  • All replacement requests must be received by July 31, 2023.
  • Replacement CullShad(s) will be shipped by the end of August.

The team at Berkley has identified the cause of the issues and are already in production of the next round of baits that meet our stringent standards. By the end of August, the new round of baits will be sent to consumers to replace the previously released baits and we will resume shipping to retailers.

“We take great pride in the Berkley CullShad and firmly support its innovative design, which provides consumers with a fresh perspective on swimbaits,” said Berkley’s Senior Vice President of Marketing, Jon Schlosser. “We have a responsibility to anglers nationwide to guarantee that each product performs according to its intended design. Therefore, we are proactively taking steps to address the concerns related to the CullShad by implementing a replacement program for affected customers, aiming to ensure their utmost satisfaction in light of the inconsistencies found within the first batch of baits.”

Our commitment to our customers and anglers is to continue to develop and introduce the world’s best baits. We appreciate your help ensuring that only the best CullShads survive.

About Pure Fishing

Pure Fishing is a collection of the world’s favorite fishing brands. Every day, all around the world, someone experiences the joy of catching a fish with one of our products. From gear for epic battles at sea to a relaxing day with family at the lake, our portfolio includes the most recognized and admired brands in fishing tackle, lures, rods, reels and storage. Abu Garcia®, All Star®, Berkley®, Fenwick®, Fin-Nor®, Frabill®, Greys®, Hardy®, Hodgman®, Johnson®, JRC®, Mitchell®, Penn®, Pflueger®, Plano®, Shakespeare®, SpiderWire®, Stren®, Ugly Stik® and Van Staal®.

How and Where To Catch January Bass at Smith Lake with GPS Coordinates

January Bass at Smith with Craig Daniel

    If you hate the cold and stay home this month you will miss out on some great fishing.  The spots at Smith Lake stack up in deep water and gorge on shad this month and you can catch them in a variety of ways.

    Smith Lake is north of Birmingham and its deep, clear waters are full of big spots.  Craig Daniel has fished it for years and is well known in the area.   After fishing professionally for about ten years and making the Bassmasters Classic twice and the FLW Championship twice, for the past ten years he has concentrated on local tournaments on Smith.

    Craig’s experiences on Smith helped him do well in big tournaments on other lakes to the extent he won four boats, a truck, and about $450,000 on the pro trails.  Smith can be tough but Craig’s patterns for January will help you catch fish there.

    “The key depth is 20 feet,” Craig said.  The spots hold deep and feed around that depth. On warmer days they may feed from 15 to 20 feet deep and on colder days 20 to 30 feet deep, but by starting at 20 feet you will be in the zone.

    A variety of baits will catch deep spots but Craig relies on a jig head he makes and sells and Zoom four inch Finesse worm.  Craig says the little jig head won him a lot of money and it will catch fish any time on Smith and many other lakes. 

    Back up your jig head with a crankbait that will get down deep like the Norman’s DD2N and a drop shot rig and you can cover any situation you might run into this month.  Craig uses PLine Fluroclear line on all his rods and he likes Shimano reels and American Rodsmith rods. 

    The bass may be on a wide variety of types of structure and cover, from points and humps to bluff walls and brush piles, but the depth is the key.  Some wind blowing in on the structure helps and the bass are more likely to move a little shallower to feed when the wind blows baitfish to them.

    The following ten spots are all good right now and you can catch fish off them. They are on a small area of the lake so you won’t have to do a lot of running in the cold air to get to them.

    1.  N 34 04.766 – W 86 57.763 – Put in at Smith Lake Park and go downstream around the main point. Ahead of you on the left will be a double flat point running out downstream of the big field between the water and the playground.  Both the points hold bass.

    The upstream point runs slightly upstream across the cove and has brush on it.  There is a brush pile on it you can find by lining the white sign in the field with the kids slide and the power pole in the park.  Keep your boat on the deep side of the point and cast back across it.

    Craig starts here with a big crankbait like the DD22N and says chartreuse is good in any color water. He wants a big bait to bump the brush and bottom so he throws a deep running bait no matter how deep the water.  The top of the brush was about eight feet deep with the lake at 500 feet above sea level – about ten feet low.

    After running your crankbait across the brush from different angles fish it with a jig head worm.  Work the area thoroughly. Craig says a million tournaments have been won right here and it is a good place to catch a big-un – four or five pounds.

     2.  N 34 04.366 W 86 58.773 – Run downstream and go through the gap on the right side of Goat Island.  Downstream of Brushy Creek is a big round point and the downstream side of it goes into a finger cove, the upstream one of two side by side.  On the downstream side of the point is a big brown wood house with a concrete lower level. 

    Start on the river side of this point and fish all around it, working a parallel with a big crankbait then fishing your jig head worm down the slope from 15 to 30 feet deep. When you find the depth the bass are feeding, concentrate on that area.

    I got a 14 inch spot here, not a keeper with the Smith Lake slot limit, but a very pretty fish. It hit a jig head worm in about 22 feet of water, right in front of the house. But bass will feed anywhere on this point so fish it carefully.

    3.  N 34 04.342 – W 86 59.066 – Go into the second finger cove and watch for a house on your left with a dock running out slightly toward the lake.  It is on a small point and the house is grey with a white railing around the porch, and is just downstream of a pavilion and small boat ramp.

    Just in front and downstream of the dock is a big pine tree Craig put into the water.  If you line up the pole on the right side of the house with the oak tree behind it you will be on line for the brush pile.  It runs way out so stay back. The brush topped out at five feet deep with the water ten feet low and ran out to be almost 15 feet deep top at its deepest.

    Run a crankbait across it then work your jig head worm through the tree.  Craig uses a one-quarter ounce jig head and its round shape helps it come through the branches of the tree. Move it slowly and be ready to set the hook on any mushy feel. Craig says the bass on Smith often just suck in the jig head and hold it. If you wait for a thump or a fish swimming off you will often miss the fish here and on all other spots.

    4.  N 34 03.459 – W 85 59.392 – Downstream of Bailey Mountain is a big cove and the upstream point of it is surrounded with a concrete seawall and covered with riprap.  There is a big three level gray house on the point.

     This point is beside deep water and has the kind of sharp drop Craig likes.  The river ledge goes parallel to the point and the point steps down, but it drops straight off on the river side.  Craig likes drops like this that might drop from 12 to 100 feet almost straight down.  He says big fish live on sharp drops.

    This is mainly a jig head point and Craig with work it very slowly.  When it first hits bottom he says let it sit a few seconds then move it very slowly, feeling for a fish. If you shake or hop it on that first pull you will often pull it away from a bass.  Feel for the fish then move it in short hops, shaking it as you let it sit on the bottom between hops.

    Craig also says if you do miss a hit, drop the jig back and let it sit. Spots will often come back and hit again so give them a second chance to take it.  We caught another 14 inch spot off this point in about 20 feet of water here after missing another hit, and it may have been the same bass.

    5.  N 34 03.227 – W 86 59.093 – Almost straight across the lake is a big round point with a small cut or gut just downstream of it. The point is just upstream of a travel trailer with a small dock in front of it on the other side of the cut.  The trailer has a red railing around a deck in front of it.

    Fish around this big point on the downstream side with your crankbait and jig head.  Bass will stack up on the point and feed. It runs out slightly downstream and has rocks and brush on it. Work around it with a big crankbait then fish the 15 to 30 foot depths with your jig head worm.  Watch your depthfinder for balls of baitfish on this point and others, too.  If you see baitfish you are more likely to find bass schooled up.

    6.  N 34 03.190 – W 86 59.045 – The cut just downstream of the point above is a good example of the kind of cuts or guts bass will stack up in during January.  They will hold under shad in 20 to 60 feet of water and these places Craig will fish even deeper than other places.

    The bass often hold on the point in hole 5 then move to the cut with the shad.  Craig will keep his boat in the middle of the cut and fan cast it at all angles, working down both sides and right down the middle.  A jig head worm is good but Craig will sometimes tie on a bucktail jig and swim it down the gut, too.

    Watch for shad. If shad are in the cut bass will be here.  That is a key. Also, watch for bass holding under the baitfish. If you see bass under them your drop shot rig is a good way to catch them. Craig ties his hook about a foot above a drop shot sinker and puts a Zoom Tiny Fluke in shad colors on it.

    7.  N 34 02.635 – W 86 59.009 – Run down to the mouth of Simpson Creek and start into it.  On your left just where the creek starts to open up there is another excellent cut between two points. One point is mostly chunk rock and the other is mostly clay.  The cut is very round.

    In cuts like this rain causes runoff that will draw the baitfish in and bass follow. Fish it like the one above, working it at all angles.  Craig says you can hit several of these cuts without catching much then load the boat in the one where the bass are holding.

    Wind blowing into this cut helps as it does on all other spots, but if the wind is so strong you can’t fish open water these cuts offer protected places to fish. The bass will be here even without wind so check out cuts if the wind is real bad.

    8.  N 34 02.170 – W 86 58.754 –Across the creek on the right going upstream is a cut that runs back off the main creek at an angle upstream.  On the left side is a dock with a red top and on the right is a dock with a green top and a green awning is on the cabin on that side. In the middle of this pocket, out even with the mouth of it, is a hump that drops from 12 to 30 feet deep very fast.

    The hump is about as big as a bass boat so you may need to find it then come back and fish it later. When you locate it fish a crankbait across it, bumping bottom. Then work your jig head across it and down the drop. There is brush and stumps and trees all over this hump and drop and you will get hung up but it holds fish.

    Craig says he has caught a six pounder and a bunch of fours here.  Since there is so much cover here fish your jig head very slowly. Move your jig head just a few inches at a time then shake it in one place before moving it a few inches again.  Let it fall down the slope and stop and shake it again.  Give the bass a chance to hit.

    9.   N 34 01.981 – W 86 58.294 – Across the lake on your left going upstream is a huge open area with small arms running off it. It is a big shallow flat with humps and ridges running half way out into the creek, called Simpson Flats. 

    On the bank on the flat side you will see a brick house with a green roof and green roof dock in a cut and a point running upstream on that side. Line that up with the four cabins on the far bank. The second one from the downstream side has a patch of riprap in front of it.

    If you get way out on this line you will come up on a long ridge that drops off very fast on the downstream side and flattens out on the upstream side. When moving around here be careful and watch your depth. There are areas that are just a foot or so deep at ten feet low. 

    When you find the ridge and point watch for baitfish and bass under them. Use your drop shot rig out here. Get right on top of the fish, drop your lead to the bottom then, with a tight line barely twitch your rod tip. This will make the Tiny Fluke dance in one place. Craig caught several small spots and a couple in the slot out here in early December when we fished.

    10. N 34 01.695 – W 86 57.568 – Run up the creek to the deep cut on your right with BB Calvert’s Launch in the back.  It is just upstream of where the creek bends back to your left going upstream and there is shelf rock bluffs on both sides of it. There are houses on the downstream side and the upstream bank looks like an old clear cut with no houses.

    Go in to the cut to the dock on a small rock point   It has a light on the  back corner.  Just downstream of this dock is a big brush pile on the bluff bank.  Get in close, your boat will be in about 25 feet of water a short pitch from the bluff. 

    Craig fishes his jig head on a spinning rod and pitches it rather than casts it overhand.  He will pitch his jig head right to the rocks then move it very slowly down the drop and through the brush.  Feel for bass before you move your bait each time. They may be holding anywhere from six to 30 feet deep here and the brush covers most of that area. 

Fish it slowly.

    Check out these ten spots and see how Craig catches January bass at Smith.  You can find many other spots just like these to fish after you see the pattern.

    Craig does some guide trips on Smith so you can call him to see first hand how he fishes the lake. You can also buy his jig head by calling 256-737-9021.