Paddlesports Boating Safety

By Frank Sargeant, Editor
from The Fishing Wire

While the loss of two boys offshore of Pompano Beach recently made national news, a scene just as tragic quietly unfolded this past week on the backwaters of Lake Guntersville, an impoundment on the Tennessee River in northern Alabama.

There, a father, his 16 year old son and two teen-aged friends–none wearing life preservers–decided to fit themselves into a single canoe for an outing on the lake. A storm came up, the overloaded canoe overturned–and at this writing the son has been found drowned, the father’s body remains undiscovered. The two teens were able to reach shore.

The incident highlights the need for basic boating education among those who indulge in what is generally known as “paddlesports”, paddling and fishing in canoes, kayaks and other non-motorized watercraft. Paddlesport boating safety is critically important.

There’s a tendency among those new to these little boats to think that there’s very little danger associated with them, since they travel so slowly and can’t really get out of control on still waters like the TVA chain.

But in fact they are generally more dangerous, rather than less so, for inexperienced and incautious users than are larger, motorized boats.

Properly trained and equipped, kids can safely enjoy canoes and kayaks, as shown here. But without PFD’s and an understanding of the physics of these small boats, an outing can become risky. (Photo Credit Old Town Canoes)

Stability is the first factor. Most canoes and kayaks are very “tippy” due to their light weight and rounded bottom. Lean too far one way and the boat simply turns turtle, flipping you and all your gear into the water. Strong winds and big boat wakes can also flip them. There are now some new models of fishing kayaks made with much greater stability due to broader beam and sponson-like bottoms, but for the most part, the majority of paddle-powered boats are exceptionally easy to flip.

Taking youngsters in these boats can be particularly risky because they may not comprehend how shifting their weight can affect the buoyancy–a quick primer in the basics is a must before you leave the docks.

Also, unless you are young and athletic, getting back into one of these boats once they turn over is no easy matter. Even if you’re in condition, getting back into many of them takes some specialized know-how. For those who are overweight and/or out of shape, it’s virtually impossible.

Next, no one should ever step into one of these little boats without wearing a quality life jacket. Simply carrying it along, as you might on a pontoon boat or other large, stable watercraft, just won’t do. If the boat goes over and you don’t have the life jacket strapped on, you may not be able to put it on in the water, even if you swim well and don’t panic. For those who can’t swim, it should be a no-brainer never to set foot in one of these boats without a good PFD in place. A flotation cushion as a backup is also a must.

Also, the charm of paddle sports–that they’re slow, silent and pollution free–can also be part of the challenge. Traveling with wind and current, it’s easy to get a long way from land before you realize it–and reversing course to go back against the wind or current will be very difficult. In fact, for those not used to paddling, it can be impossible.

Also, the amount of time it takes to get to safety should a storm approach can be far longer than it would be in a powerboat–and for those with limited experience, getting caught in open water in a canoe or ‘yak almost always leads to trouble.

While still-water paddle sports have their challenges, these are multiplied in flowing streams, of which North Alabama is blessed with many. In general, those with minimal experience in handling canoes and kayaks should simply assume they are going to get wet if they start down a fast-flowing river; you might be lucky, but you might not, too, particularly if there are any rapids.

But rapids are not the only issue in these streams–in many cases, trees blow down across the flow, and boats swept up against these obstructions are nearly always rolled over.

And simply keeping the boat pointed down-river can be a challenge for the inexperienced anywhere the water flows faster than a walk. If it goes sideways to the current, a rollover is once more highly likely.

All these cautions aside, thousands of outdoors fans enjoy paddle sports all over Alabama every day in complete safety and without the slightest problems, but it’s wise to be aware that there are potential dangers in these seemingly innocuous watercraft for those who don’t come prepared.

Tips on Understanding Engine Trim/Tilt and Trim Tabs from Yamaha Marine

Systems Designed to Improve Performance, Efficiency and Ride

The combination of tilt and trim on the outboard along with optional trim tabs can help boaters operate their boats at a high level of efficiency and economy.

The dynamics of driving an outboard-powered boat are very different than driving a car. With a road vehicle, you’re basically rolling its mass over a flat surface on wheels, but with a boat you’re pushing the mass of a vessel through water. The more a boat’s hull planes—or rises up out of the water—the more it reduces the amount of surface actually in contact with the water. Keeping the boat balanced fore and aft and on an even keel affects how efficiently a boat will run. It’s called “trim,” and a properly trimmed hull has two very beneficial results: reduced fuel consumption and increased speed.

Outboard boats often have two systems designed specifically to control trim: the trim and tilt system that is part of the outboard engine(s), and a pair of electric or hydraulic trim tabs that are mounted at or just forward of the transom and flush with the running surface of the hull. Let’s look at the two systems to get a better understanding of what each does and how they work together.

Controls on the console control both the engine tilt and trim and the trim tabs.

Most outboard engines over 70 horsepower come with a trim and tilt system that is driven by a hydraulic ram located in the center of the engine mounting bracket. Its function is to raise and lower the engine, and it is controlled by an “up/down” rocker switch built into the shift and throttle control that is located directly under your right thumb for ease of access. For boats with more than one outboard, the switch will operate all the engines simultaneously. In the “tilt” mode, the system raises the engine completely out of the water when not in use. It can also be used to raise the engine when running the boat slowly in very shallow water to prevent propeller damage.

In trim mode, the system works to adjust the angle of the engine to affect the running angle of the boat. As the boat increases speed, the engine angle provides the lift necessary to bring the boat on plane for optimal performance. In the full down position, the engine is in “negative trim,” meaning the angle of the engine shaft and propeller is slightly forward of straight down in relation to the transom. This is the position the engine should be in before throttling up from a dead stop. Negative trim exerts downward force on the hull to reduce bow rise that is common to most planing hulls under initial acceleration. The harder the initial acceleration, the greater the tendency the bow will rise. If you throttle up hard from a dead stop, (a procedure called “hole shot”) some hulls will lift the bow at a severe angle momentarily until the downward force of the engine counters the rise.

This vee hull is trimmed out level and running at an efficient attitude.

As the boat picks up speed, the bow will settle in and negative trim will become a hindrance to performance because it will inhibit the hull from getting on plane. Now is the time to raise the engine using the trim switch on the throttle to change the angle from negative to positive trim. To find optimum trim at cruising speeds, raise the engine slowly until you start to feel the hull rise. As it comes on plane, both engine RPM and speed will increase without changing the throttle setting, and the steering will feel lighter. Those are all effects caused by the hull rising on plane, which reduces the amount of bottom in contact with the water. Less hull contact equates to less friction, more speed and less power and fuel to push the boat.

If you’re new to boating or if you’re running a new boat for the first time, you’ll have to familiarize yourself with the proper trim settings, and that takes a little practice time. Go through the motions of running the boat from a stop to where the boat comes on plane (on most planing hulls that can range from 20 to 30 MPH). Raise the engine and watch the trim gauge to note the position where the RPM and speed increase and the vessel gains the greatest performance benefit. If you over trim the engine, you can lose hull efficiency. This can be identified a few different ways. As you increase the throttle setting, RPM will continue to climb without a corresponding increase in speed. When over trimmed the bow might begin to rise and fall rhythmically, which is called porpoising. Extreme over trim can cause the propeller to lose its grip on the water, a situation called cavitation.

When you run the boat at higher and higher speeds, you can typically increase the engine trim angle above the optimal setting for cruising, but there is no specific set trim angle for every hull at every speed. It’s how the boat feels and performs that sets the bar. Trim settings vary from boat to boat and with the amount of horsepower you have strapped to the transom, so every boat is a learning experience. Once you find and get used to the correct balance of speed and trim angle, it will become second nature.

Stepped hulls, usually in high performance boats, can handle lots of trim—and they sometimes get airborne in rough seas!

A quick note on stepped hull boats is in order. The stepped hull deep-vee design has become very popular in recent years, and it works a little differently than traditional modified or deep-vee hulls. The steps notched into the bottom of the boat force air under the hull to reduce friction and wetted surface. The power trim system on the outboard engines driving a stepped hull is just as important, if not more so, but the hull’s response to trim is different. These designs have very little bow rise under initial acceleration and as the boat gets up on the steps, the riding angle will be far more level to the surface of the water. Raising the engine angle will have a definite effect, and many stepped hull boats can tolerate a greater degree of positive trim than their non-stepped cousins. You can feel the boat get on the steps and increase speed, but the transition is more subtle. Once you get used to the feel, you’ll find stepped hull performance to be faster and more aggressive.

Trim tabs are your other performance enhancing tools. They consist of a pair of planing surfaces attached to the transom or tucked into pockets in the hull at opposite sides of the transom. Trim tabs are pushed down or retracted with electric or hydraulic rams, also called actuators. Each tab is operated independently from paired switches at the helm. Each switch is marked “Down” on one side and “Up” on the other. Down refers to the effect it will have on that side of the boat. At the risk of being confusing, here’s how they work. When you depress down on the left switch it causes the tab on the opposite or right (starboard) side of the transom to lower. As it does, it exerts a downward force to the port side of the boat. Depress down on the right switch and the tab on the left (port) side of the transom exerts a downward force on the starboard side of the boat.

Trim tabs are used to keep the boat on an even keel while running. For example, if you have more people or weight toward the port side of the boat, it will lean to port while underway. Simply depress the starboard side trim tab switch until the boat levels out. Same procedure if the boat is unbalanced to the starboard side. Maintaining an even keel aids the efficiency and ride quality of the hull in both calm and rough water. A boat running on an uneven keel loses a degree of efficiency, but it can also cause the hull to slam on that side when moving through waves.

Trim tabs can also be used to help adjust the angle the bow strikes waves under various sea conditions. When you have the boat trimmed and on plane, you can add or reduce downward pressure on the bow by adjusting both trim tabs simultaneously. This adjustment can help the boat slice through waves in a head sea more efficiently and with less impact. Keep in mind that adjusting running attitude in this manner is very much a matter of feeling how the boat is performing. Boat speed, engine trim and trim tab settings will be different with varying sea states and severity and it takes experimenting with each to find the “sweet spot” for changing conditions.

Outboard power trim and tilt systems and trim tabs are critically important tools for running your boat more efficiently and safely. Their proper use greatly augments the way the hull is designed to perform in calm water, whether you boat on lakes, rivers, bays or in the open ocean. They are absolutely priceless when running boats in rough water and can help you turn a rough ride into a soft one with just a little practice.

For those of us remembering sculling a heavy wooden boat with one had while trying to fish with the other while fishing alone, the modern bass boat is an amazing development. We remember having to paddle half the time when we fished with someone else while they fished, then swapping places.

Now we sit in comfort, maneuver the boat easily with a foot controlled electric motor leaving our hands free to fish, and there is little noise. We can also glance at our fish finder and find fish holding cover and structure, and even see the fish under the water.

When we want to move to another place the turn of a key, rather than yanking on a rope for what often seemed like hours, gets the gas motor cranked. We zip quickly around the lake and don’t waste fishing time going from one hot spot to another.

The boats are stable, allowing us to stand and fish, even right on the edge of the boat. Livewells keep our catch alive and fresh to either release after a little showing off at the ramp or to take home and clean. An electric bilge pump automatically gets water out of the boat when it rains. No more bailing with tin cans!

But what do you really need for fishing? What you want and what you need may be very different things. Right now there is a Triton bass boat with a 300 HP Mercury motor and fully rigged out that lists for $102,000.00. Yes, a fishing boat sells for over one hundred thousand dollars!

The only reason I can see for spending that kind of money on a boat is the same reason you want the penthouse condo – to show off. Buy there is no need for a boat that is not even legal in tournaments because of the size of the motor.

For less than half that amount you can get a top of the line bass boat that will meet any fishing need. But fifty thousand dollars for a fishing boat is still a ridiculous amount. If you fish a lot of tournaments on big waters it is probably worth it, but what does the normal bass fisherman need?

To me the most important development in my fishing lifetime are strong, reliable electric motors. If I put my boat in for a tournament and it won’t crank, or the electronics won’t work, I can still fish as long as the boat doesn’t sink and my trolling motor works.

I have a 24 volt 82 pound thrust Motor Guide trolling motor. With the two batteries I can easily fish ten hours on Saturday, charge them up over night and fish 8 more hours on Sunday. And the motor is strong enough to hold the boat and even move it against any wind I have ever fished in, as long as the waves are not so high they raise the front of the boat and the trolling motor out of the water.

I have a 20 foot long Skeeter bass boat with a 225 horsepower Yamaha motor. It will run over 70 miles per hour, but I never run that fast unless trying to get in when a thunder storm hits. It is nice to have the reserve power when needed, and with a motor that big I can cruise at 50 mph at a fairly low RPM and save gas. But unless you have a big boat you don’t need that big a motor.

How big should your boat be? If you fish on normal days and don’t want to run for many miles, a 16 foot boat with a 90 HP motor will get you around quickly and be comfortable even on big lakes. A 14 or 15 foot boat is ok most of the time but on bigger lakes they can get rough, and they are not as stable as a bigger boat.

Aluminum boats are lighter and require a smaller motor and many do a great job.

I have top of the line Lowrance depthfinders on my boat. With them I can ride over a brush top in 20 feet of water and see every fish in it. And I can find rocks, brush, other cover and structure up to 100 feet on either side of the boat as I idle along. But those units cost thousands of dollars and I think I caught just as many fish on a simple unit costing less than $200!

Livewells are required in tournaments and are nice at all times, but you can get by without fancy ones if you keep your catch or if you let fish go as soon as you catch them. Onboard battery chargers are fantastic – just plug one thing in and it charges all three batteries in my boat. For many years I used regular chargers and they cost a lot less.

I would not be without a good bilge pump with a float switch that turns it on when water gets a few inches deep in the bilge. One of them can save your boat from sinking when tied up to a dock if you are staying inside out of a heavy rain.

Brand new boats are fantastic. But you can get a used boat that is in really good shape for less than half the cost, if you are careful. Just spend the money and take the motor to a good mechanic to be checked – it will save you money in the long run1

The bottom line is get what you need unless you want to spend the money for what you want. Make two lists – one of what you want and one of what you need, set a budget, stick with it and start your search!

Loading And Unloading Your Boat

by Bob Jensen
from The Fishing Wire

How you load and unload your boat at the boat ramp may not have an impact on how many fish you catch, but getting it in the water can set the tone for the day, for you and for any other angler that’s waiting to put their boat in the water. Unloading your boat should be a quick and easy process, but often times it isn’t. Following are some things you can do to get your boat off and on the trailer quickly and safely. By doing these things you’ll be fishing quicker, and you won’t be tying up the ramp and preventing others from going fishing sooner. Here we go.

When you arrive at the boat ramp, pull into either the parking lot or the rigging lane. Do not go directly to the ramp. (AMEN – don’t block the ramp while you get ready!!)

All preparations for launching should be done in the parking lot or rigging area. Transfer gear from the truck to the boat now. Don’t do that while you’re blocking the ramp.

Remove any boat covers, tie-downs, or transom savers. Put the key in the ignition. Make sure the plug is in the boat.

If your trailer is a bunk style trailer, and if you’re comfortable doing so, you can unhook the winch strap from the boat now. Lots of anglers who use this style trailer unhook the strap in the rigging area unless the ramp is very steep.

Some anglers have roller trailers. The winch strap on roller trailers should not be unhooked until the boat is in the water. The boat will roll off onto the concrete ramp if you do. Not good!

When everything is ready, we approach the ramp. One angler is in the boat, the other backs the rig into the water. When the boat is in the water, if the winch strap hasn’t been unhooked, now is the time to do so. Back the trailer into the water until it rolls off or floats off. The angler in the boat idles away from the dock while the truck driver parks the truck. Don’t tie up to the dock, that just blocks it for the next person. When your partner gets to the dock, you pull up, he or she hops in, and off you go. Easy deal.

Some will say that their partner isn’t comfortable driving a boat or driving a truck with a trailer on the back. They need to get comfortable with doing both. That’s part of the responsibility of fishing from a boat.

When it’s time to go home, we just reverse the process. We pull into the dock, the truck driver gets out and goes to get the truck. If the ramp is busy, again, idle away from the dock. Don’t tie the dock area up. When the trailer is in the water, either drive or winch the boat onto the trailer, hook the winch strap, and pull out. Go to the parking area or somewhere away from the ramp to prepare the boat for the trip home. It shouldn’t take more than a minute or two to get your boat out of the water and out of the way.

I’ve seen many, many, many interesting and sometimes uncomfortable situations at the boat ramp. If you keep the above ideas in mind, you won’t be part of one of those interesting or uncomfortable situations, and you’ll enjoy your time on the water even more.

To see all the newest episodes of Fishing the Midwest television, visit fishingthemidwest.com If you do Facebook, check us out for a variety of fishing related things.

Boating Tips from a Seasoned Coast Guard Pro

by Petty Officer 1st Class Nick Ameen
from The Fishing Wire

Clyde Rawls, the director of operations for the Frank S. Farley State Marina in Atlantic City, N.J. (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 1st Class Nick Ameen)

If you live in the Mid-Atlantic region, chances are you’ve been frustrated with the weather this past winter. Then it snowed … on the first day of spring!

Now temperatures are beginning to reach the mid-60s, many boaters are ready to hit the water and shake off that cabin fever, but before heading out, there are numerous factors to consider.

The Coast Guard consistently reminds boaters of the importance of wearing life jackets and filing a float plan, but many do not check the wiring on their boat. That’s one of the many tips from Clyde Rawls, the director of operations for the Frank S. Farley State Marina in Atlantic City, New Jersey.

“Regardless of the size of the boat everything should be checked,” said Rawls. “If the boat’s been stowed for any length of time you really need to go over everything with a fine-tooth comb, looking for loose wiring that could cause failure of a piece of equipment necessary to propel the boat.”

A boat can quickly become disabled if loose wiring causes the engine to malfunction, but a disabled boat can also sink if weather takes a turn for the worse before help arrives. That’s why proper communications devices are a solid investment.

“Having a VHF radio onboard is vitally important — it’s one of the most important pieces of safety equipment you can have,” said Rawls. “It’s a direct line to the Coast Guard. It’s a direct line to the all the boats anywhere in eyesight. If something’s going on you have a lot more eyes immediately looking around and spotting you rather than you trying to place a 911 call from a cell phone out in the middle of the ocean.”

Rawls also said cell phone batteries can die at the most inopportune time, so VHF radios are exponentially more reliable. Additionally, cell phone signals are unreliable the farther boaters are from shore.

Clyde Rawls, the director of operations for the Frank S. Farley State Marina in Atlantic City, N.J., demonstrates how to use a manual dewatering pump.

Another key item to check is the bilge pump system, if a boat is equipped with one. Rawls stressed the importance of inspecting the float switch, which activates the bilge pump if water is detected. Without a properly functioning float switch and bilge pump a boater could end up in a great deal of trouble if the boat starts to take on water. Rawls recommended having a manual dewatering pump aboard as a backup.

“You’ll wear yourself out, but they do work,” said Rawls. “I used one this winter on a dinghy that was taking on water. I couldn’t activate the bilge pump on the boat, so I ended up hand-pumping it out.”

Rawls discussed the importance of knowing the limitations of the boat, as well as personal limitations as a boater.

“People get out into seas — or seas will build around them — and they think it’s not that big of a deal, but they’re not paying attention that it’s getting worse and worse and worse,” said Rawls. “On a smaller boat, if the [sides of the boat] are low, chances are you could be swamped if you’re in really rough seas, so just know the limitations of your own skill as a captain and the physical limitations of the boat. Make sure the boat is not over-weighted by the number of people or gear. People forget a cooler of beverages weighs a lot.”

Rawls also said a person can get dehydrated when drinking alcohol, and those effects are intensified while out on the water in the sunshine. Staying hydrated with plenty of water should definitely be a priority for those looking to get the most out of an underway trip.

Taking a boating safety course can also enhance a boater’s skill level and confidence at the helm.

“It’s not only a good idea, it’s required,” said Rawls.

Boaters should master the basics before they buy a boat, but it’s never too late to take a boater’s safety course.

The Frank S. Farley State Marina in Atlantic City, N.J.,

Rawls said sun protection is also a critical factor in safe boating. Wear appropriate attire, like polarized sunglasses, which greatly increases what can be seen on the water by eliminating glare.

“Boating should be a very enjoyable, relaxing activity — with proper preparation,” said Rawls. “Have sunscreen. No one wants to get fried three hours into their day and be miserable with a sunburn. Also, wear boat shoes! Flip-flops are for the beach.”

With so many tips on how to prepare for a safe boating season, it’s also important to take the same precautions for passengers.

“Look after your crew and your pets,” said Rawls. “Pets need life jackets, too.”

In fact, everyone needs a life jacket while boating. Children under 13 are required to wear a life jacket at all times while boating, but the Coast Guard urges all boaters to wear their life jacket while underway. Attempting to put on your life jacket during an emergency at sea is like trying to put on your seatbelt during a car accident —life-threatening situations escalate quickly, and every second counts.

As summer approaches and the weather conditions improve on the water, remember, boating safety starts on shore. Tragedies occur all too often on the water, and by taking the necessary precaution beforehand, boaters can ensure their survival if tragedy does strike.

When Things Went Wrong, Teen Boater Kept Cool

The Case for Taking a Boating Safety Course
from The Fishing Wire

15-year-old Matt Mainzer kept his cool when his flats boat started to sink. He says taking a boating safety education course gave him the knowledge to ensure everyone’s safety aboard.
TAMPA, FL, When 15-year Matt Mainzer decided to take a couple of friends out boating one Sunday afternoon in late March, little did he know that he would find himself and his friends floating in life jackets hanging on to the overturned hull of the teen’s 17-foot flats boat awaiting rescue. But according to Mainzer, his boating safety education would help him survive the day. A graduate of the no-cost online boating safety course provided by the BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water, Mainzer said, ‘I wouldn’t have known what I needed to know if I hadn’t taken the boating safety course.”

Of course most folks would recognize Mainzer’s ability to keep his cool and being prepared as the reason for the young trio’s successful rescue. According to Mainzer, as water started to fill the boat through a rapidly widening crack in the hull – eventually causing the three teens to jump overboard – the quick thinking Mainzer had everyone in life jackets.

Using a cell phone in a waterproof case, Mainzer had also already advised a friend of their predicament initiating a rescue response. Once the three teens were floating in the waters of the Tampa Bay, he remembered keep everyone hanging on to the boat’s hull, of which only a small portion of the bow was above water. And his boating guests, two female teens, also remained calm and followed their captain’s instructions. Rescuers were on scene in minutes.

“Matt’s ability to stay calm and take decisive action saved them from harm,” said BoatUS Foundation President Chris Edmonston. “And I’m sure Matt’s parents instilled in him a great sense of respect for boating safety. But we are also very pleased he was able to take away some key knowledge from our online boating safety course, like always having life jackets accessible and ready to go. Once water started entering the boat they were easy to put on. So often boaters keep them hidden in places that essentially render them useless.”

Mainzer, who has been boating since he was a two-year old, added, “The BoatUS Foundation Online Boating Safety Course was easy to take and wasn’t boring. I learned a lot.” As the boating season begins, boaters can find the BoatUS Foundation online courses at BoatUS.org/courses.

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The BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water is a national leader promoting safe, clean and responsible boating. Funded primarily by donations from the over half-million members of Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS), the non-profit provides innovative educational outreach directly to boaters and anglers with the aim of reducing accidents and fatalities, increasing stewardship of America’s waterways and keeping boating safe for all. A range of boating safety courses – including 33 free state courses – can be found at BoatUS.org/courses.

Coast Guard: Recreational Boating Safety Tips
from The Fishing Wire

The Coast Guard station in St. Petersburg, Florida, had an exceptionally busy weekend, and consequently has issued a set of reminder to area boaters that should be fodder for all of us who use recreational boats nationwide. Editor

ST. PETERSBURG, Fla. —The Coast Guard wants to remind mariners to have the proper safety equipment aboard their boats after a busy weekend in the Tampa Bay area.

Watchstanders at Coast Guard Sector St. Petersburg responded to 12 search and rescue calls over the weekend. The majority of the boaters did not have the proper safety equipment aboard their boats.

“It is imperative people do not leave the dock without having proper safety equipment aboard their vessel including a VHF-FM radio, life jackets and flares,” said Lt. Sullivan, a search and rescue coordinator at the sector. “These tools save lives.”

Crewmembers from Coast Guard Station St. Petersburg, Coast Guard Air Station Clearwater, Florida, Coast Guard Station Cortez, Florida, and Coast Guard Station Fort Myers Beach, Florida, saved 11 lives, and assisted 12 people since Friday.

“There were a variety of search and rescue calls this weekend,” said Sullivan. “You cannot help a boat malfunction, but you can ensure you have the appropriate resources to deal with situations on the water, starting with a working VHF-FM marine radio.”

A VHF-FM marine radio is the best method of communication while on the water. Although cell phones are a good backup, they can be unreliable due to gaps in coverage area and the inevitable dead battery.

Below are more safety tips mariners should review before heading out on the water.

Inspect your boat to avoid breakdowns that often lead to tragedy in the water. Obtain a free, no-fault vessel safety check, which can be conducted by the Coast Guard Auxiliary, before heading out on the water. The safety checks are courtesy examinations of your vessel, verifying the presence and condition of certain safety equipment required by state and federal regulations.
Make sure a friend or relative knows your float plan. A float plan states where you are going and how many people are aboard your vessel. It also gives a vessel description, details your destination and what time you expect to arrive there. If you are delayed for some reason, make sure you let someone know.
Wear your life jacket! More than 80 percent of boaters who drown were not wearing their life jackets. In an emergency there might not be enough time to put one on, so wearing one at all times may save your life.
Don’t drink and boat! The federal BAC limit is .08 for a BUI. Alcohol can impair a boater’s judgment, balance, vision, and reaction time.
Have working communication equipment aboard your vessel.

“Safety on the water is our number one priority,” said Sullivan. “However, safety starts with the boater before they leave the dock.”

Tiller Vs Wheel Steering for your Next Boating Rig

By Bob Jensen

It’s Boat Show and Sportshow season across North America. It’s also the season when many anglers and boaters are looking for a different boat for the upcoming fishing and boating season.

One of the primary considerations for northern anglers is whether to get a rig equipped with remote steering—that is a steering wheel—or direct steering: tiller.

While it’s rare to see tiller steering on anything much over 25 horsepower in most of the country, up in walleye and lake trout country, tillers are common and are even the favorite of many top level anglers.

With tiller steering, you’ll sit in the back of the boat and hang on to a handle extending from the engine. The steering and speed control are in that handle. If you’ve never run a tiller boat before, there is a bit of a learning curve, but you’ll catch on quickly.

Notice all the open area in this tiller boat. For smaller water, a tiller boat is tough to beat.

The advantage of the steering wheel is you’re probably going to be familiar with the steering. You’ll also have a windshield, so you’ll be more protected from the elements and spray when you run from spot to spot. If you’re traveling long distances by water, the steering wheel is much less tiring than the tiller steering, although there are tiller-assist kits that really reduce fatigue from tiller steering.

The advantage of tiller steering is that it really opens up the boat. The steering console is gone, so there’s lots of room to move around.

Boat control is also better with the tiller when you’re employing some techniques, especially if you’ll be backtrolling for walleyes. Some of the electric motors that go on the bow do an outstanding job for boat control, but if you want the ultimate in boat control while backtrolling, a tiller boat provides that. Back in the day, almost all of the walleye guides and tournament guys fished out of tiller boats that were eighteen feet long and had a fifty horsepower motor. Now, because they’re fishing bigger water much of the time, console boats with steering wheels are the deal, although there are some twenty foot tiller boats with big outboards on the back of them out there.

Keep in mind also whether or not your boat will do double duty to pull skiers or tubers. This can be done with a tiller boat, but it’s easier done with a console boat.

Consider how much you’ll be on big water. If most of your fishing is done on big bodies of water and you’ll be running several miles or longer on a regular basis, a wheel boat will probably be better.

If you like to fish the smaller lakes and rivers that aren’t affected by the wind so much and you won’t be running long distances, a tiller boat might be perfect for you.

Tiller boats usually require less horsepower and the rigging is less costly, so the cost to get into a tiller boat is usually less. Also, with a tiller boat you can fish from the back, so you don’t need an electric motor or depth-finder on the bow, and you won’t need a kicker motor either. You can put a transom mount electric motor back by the outboard for the slowest presentations if you want.

I ran a Larson FX 1750 tiller boat last year with an Evinrude E-TEC 90 HO for power. This rig did an outstanding job for me. I fished some lakes that were large, but mostly smaller lakes. I didn’t miss the steering wheel all that much, although there were a couple of times when a wheel boat probably would have been better.

If you’re thinking about a new-to-you boat this year, keep these ideas in mind. If you do, you’re on the way to a boat that will do a good job most of the time.

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